Training A Border Collie To Stop Herding Other Dogs

Herding is an innate behaviour, meaning that it is inherited from a certain gene pool and does not require much learning, if any, for it to become a habit. Behaviours that are of genetic origin can be difficult to modify because they are pre-programmed responses, unlike learned behaviours, therefore are much more resistant to change. Herding/chasing can be self-reinforcing, due to a release of chemicals in the brain when the dog engages in this activity. In other words, it’s fun! My young Border Collie, Fliss, is a very strong herder. Cars, dogs, people and anything that moves! Cars are no longer a problem because I did lots of gradual desensitisation when she was a puppy, having predicted that it may be an issue. However, she delights in herding other dogs when out on walks, particularly if they are running or chasing a ball. I am in the process of modifying this behaviour, and below, I will outline the steps which are necessary to do this.

1. MANAGEMENT
   This is a fundamental part of behaviour modification. It basically involves preventing the behaviour from happening, wherever possible, while training is carried out. I keep Fliss on a long-line when we are in the park or any other place where we are likely to see other dogs. It’s important to remember that herding is self-reinforcing, so any opportunity to practice the behaviour will likely increase the chances of it happening again. By using a long-line, I can prevent her from going near other dogs while still allowing her the freedom of being off lead by dropping the line, so it trails along the ground and is easy to pick up if another dog appears.
2. RECALL PROOFING
   A very important part of this type of training is to get a good recall. It is essential to start somewhere with minimal distractions, then increase the distraction level in small increments. An example of this: indoors<in the garden<in a quiet, secure field<on the street<on a long-line with a dog in the distance<on a long-line with a few dogs in the distance<while throwing a toy etc. This gradual build up means that, over time, the dog is densensitised to the trigger, which is movement of other dogs, and the response to the cue is strengthened. Desensitisation happens through repeated exposure to a trigger in a way that stops or reduces a response. Set the dog up for success – don’t try to progress too quickly and use high value rewards to heavily reinforce the dog for being near you and coming back when called.
3. PREMACK PRINCIPLE
   Real-life rewards/Premack Principle can be highly effective in distracting environments. When I take Fliss for an off-lead walk (away from other dogs) I ask for a sit and watch me before releasing her to run free. I have conditioned a cue, “go see”, to be both a secondary reinforcer and release to get her reward. Like a clicker, the cue marks a desirable behaviour and predicts reinforcement. When I ask for a recall, I wait for Fliss to come back, then I ask for a sit/watch me for a couple of seconds before releasing her again. Her reward for coming back is freedom. To ensure that a recall is always reinforced, I do not use my recall cue before putting her back on lead (often, this means chasing her or waiting for her to stop and sniff something!) The next step is to use freedom as a reward for a recall in the presence of other dogs.
4. PROVIDING AN ALTERNATIVE
   Because herding is so enjoyable, it can be difficult to compete with the motivation to do it. Rewards that fulfil the urge to herd will be much more effective and will provide a suitable outlet. Recently, I have been using a lunge whip with a toy attached to the end as a flirt pole. Fliss loves chasing the toy and it is much more rewarding for her than a ball or tug. Before, I would run around so she could herd me, but this is not suitable for every dog! I would only ever encourage her to herd me in a specific context – outside, off lead and after I have initiated play. Providing an alternative means you are teaching the dog that she is allowed to engage in the highly rewarding activity, but it must be with you and not other dogs. This works to decrease interest in distractions and increase interest in being with you.

Fliss has made some very good progress since I have started using these techniques. She is much more focused on me, although she still does the stare but responds very well when I call her. It will take some time before she is reliable enough to be off lead in close proximity to other dogs, but I am pleased with her progress and confident that we will get there eventually.